Expert bag maker and Sewing Street guest, Rebecca Alexander-Frost, shares how to add an inside zip pocket into any bag.

Working with a No3 zip (dress zip), you will need to cut 2 pieces of fabric 2 inches wider than the zip length. Here is an example: - So I have a 7-inch zip, I will cut my fabric 9 inches wide by (this next measurement is how big in depth you want the zip pocket to be - I will be going for 7 inches). So, I have 2 pieces of fabric 9 inches wide by 7 inches high. It’s totally up to you if you want to interface the wrong side of the fabric. We will call these the ‘Inside Zip Pocket Lining Pieces’.

Step 1

Take both pieces of the Inside Zip Pocket Lining Pieces and on both pieces press one long edge over to the wrong side 3/8 inches (see image below). Now put one of the lining pieces to one side.

Step 2

Take one of your Bag Lining pieces and fold in half vertically to find the centre and crease well. Now fold one of the Inside Zip Pocket Lining Pieces in half and find the vertical centre and crease.

Step 3

This is where you need to decide where you want the zip pocket to go in the bag lining. Say a tote shopping bag I personally, would measure down from the top 2 inches, so we will just work on the basis it’s a shopping tote for this set of instructions, but the instructions cover a wide range of styles of bags.

Step 4

Matching up the centre creases on both the inside Inside Zip Pocket Lining and the Bag Lining, measure down 2 inches (this is my chosen measurement) from the top edge of the Bag Lining. Put the Pocket Lining Piece Right side to the bag lining piece (see image below) and pin into place.

Step 5

Measure down 1 inch from the top edge of the pocket lining. Draw a line (I’m drawing a line 7 inches as I’m using a 7-inch zip for these instructions (your line will vary depending on the size of zip you are using, just remember the line needs to measure the same as the zip). So, draw a 7 inch line in the centre of the pocket lining. Then from that line measure down 3/8 inch and draw another 7 inch line in the centre. Then join up the ends to make a drawn letter box rectangular shape (see image below).

Step 6

From the two short ends of the letter box, measure in ½ inch on both ends and mark. Then find the horizontal centre of the letter box and draw a line, meeting at the two ½ inch marks.

Step 7

From those marks at the ½ inch, draw two triangles to the outer edges of the letter box (see image below).

Step 8

Sew all the way around on the outer drawn lines of the rectangular box. DO NOT sew on the inside lines. Cut the centre line all the way to each triangle point. Then cut into the triangles as seen in the photo below, but DO NOT cut into the sewn lines.

Step 9

Pass the pocket lining through the hole you’ve just cut. Press flat so there is no crease on the pocket lining or bag lining.

Step 10

Flip the bag lining piece over so the Pocket Lining is Right side facing up. Run quilter’s tape along the top and bottom of the letter box opening. Lay the 7 inch zip flat on the work surface with the zip facing up. Peel the backing tape off both pieces of quilter’s tape and now flip the bag lining over, so the Zip Pocket Lining is on the back of the panel. Match the zip up on the letter box hole, ensuring it’s straight and flat. Stick the zip into place.

Step 11

Sew 1/8 inch all the way around the letter box, making sure to catch the zip tape on the back.

Step 12

Flip the panel back over so the pocket lining is facing up. Now get the last Pocket Lining Piece, put this on the pocket lining which is attached to the Bag Lining Piece and zip, put these Right side together and make sure the folded edge of the pocket lining is down toward the bottom edge of the Pocket Lining Piece. Pin just the Pocket Lining Pieces together. Now sew down the two sides and the top ONLY and make sure to backstitch at the start and finish of those three edges. DO NOT sew the folded edge (this is the bag turning gap). Only sew the pocket lining, DO NOT sew the bag lining piece. Now open the pocket zip fully.

Step 13

This is where you carry on making the bag lining of any pattern you are following. If the bag pattern has a turning gap elsewhere sew that closed as you now have a new turning gap created within the pocket lining.

Step 14

Where the bag pattern tells you to join the bag lining and outer bag together follow the instructions as per normal.

Step 15

Now this is where your new turning gap comes into effect. Pull the zip pocket lining out of the bag and then reach inside that open folded edge and pull the bag out carefully so the right side of the bag and the bag lining is facing outside. Push out all the sides and if that bag has any boxy corner. Now push the lining into the bag.

Step 16

Following the bag pattern you are making, top stitch around the top of the bag if it’s a tote style bag and finish the bag as the pattern states.

Step 17

The last thing you need to do is sew the turning gap inside the zip pocket closed. Pull out the pocket lining and clip/pin the two folded edges together and either machine sew it closed or hand stitch it closed. Then push the pocket lining back inside the zip, make sure it’s laying flat, close the zip and then you have a finished bag where you have added an inside zip pocket, and you can’t see the turning gap within the bag.

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